Welcome to Dressing For Dread, a style analysis focusing on key characters in horror films.
The distant, forsaken atmosphere of Oz Perkins’ LONGLEGS dominates every aspect of the film, including the costumes. Heroine and protagonist Agent Lee Harker (Maika Monroe) survives in this world by using her wardrobe as a barrier. It shields her from the bitter elements. It hides her body’s silhouette. Most intriguingly, it represents an identity that has been sequestered from her.
Speculation
Harker doesn’t give much of herself away. She’s quiet, often uncomfortable, and direct. She does not interact with other adults as they would normally expect. This no-fuss attitude extends to her wardrobe. The lack of personalization in her appearance can be attributed to the mandatory professionalism her job demands or a flagrant disinterest in vanity. Maybe it’s something deeper, something cornered by the awful magic tethered to her for so long.
Despite being allowed to grow up, Harker was still infected by Kobble’s devil doll. This influence, this presence, has always been with her, perhaps forcing her to cower within herself for sheer survival. This isn’t to suggest that her mind is still childlike, but rather acknowledging the fact that the magic affected her thoughts, memories, and functions. When her doll is at last destroyed, a visible pollution leaves her body. Is there room at last for Harker to unfurl now that the space is free?
One noticeable attribute that sets her apart, however, is her hair. It is the longest and lightest of any agent’s. While some stylists may have opted for a cropped, low maintenance cut (like Clarice Starling,) Harker’s golden tresses prevent her from completely disappearing into the background. It’s also a constant reminder of her youth.
Style
Lee Harker carries a cool, autumnal theme throughout the film. Soft browns, deep reds, subtle plaid prints, beiges, pale blues, and basic blacks are all safe colors to her. No silhouette is too form fitting, nor is it baggy.
Her trademark pieces are undoubtedly knit turtleneck sweaters, which translate that she’s working in a cold climate during the late 80s to late 90s. She pulls off the turtleneck and blazer combo with ease, trading off with her navy blue FBI coat when necessary. On warmer days, she’s wearing a simple pantsuit in black with a button-up underneath: a dark red, light blue, or classic white. These particular shirts have pointed, almost sharp, collars. For shoes, she wears sensible loafers, oxfords, or a heeled bootie that is hidden under bootcut or straight leg pants. A simple pair of small metallic hoops are her only accessory, other than a silver chain link time piece. She wears this on her right wrist, despite being right handed. We do not see her in skirts or dresses. She does not wear obvious makeup or manicures.
Key Scenes
Lee is relaxed, but not completely at ease when visiting her mother in her childhood home. We see her hair in a low braid when speaking to her mother. It will be a loose, slipping ponytail the next time she arrives at the farmhouse to confront her about Kobble.
Harker only lets her hair down at home. It’s only once she gets to work on deciphering the card left by Longlegs does she put her hair back into a ponytail. She is now in work mode.
Kobble’s suicide was done in a stark, white room while Harker wore a matching blouse. However, the blood never blemishes her clothing, only her face.
Guide
To dress like Lee Harker, look for pointed collar button downs that easily tuck into your desired dress pants. The dress pants should be straight leg or boot cut, and can be slightly at or above the ankle to show off your dark brown loafers or boots. This is a professional look but can be made more casual with a good pair of stiff jeans. When you hit the store, look for turtleneck sweaters with a ribbed neck and ribbed cuffs. The bigger the neck opening, the better. The color palette is cool and muted, so no jewel tones or bold patterns.
Button-Ups with Pointed Collar
Knit Turtleneck Sweater with Ribbed Collar
V-Neck or Scoop Neck Sweater
Dark Brown Oxfords & Booties
Neutral Fitted Blazer
Straight Leg Dress Pants
Small Gold Hoops
Dainty Chain Link Watch
The costume designer for LONGLEGS was Mica Kayde.
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